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WHY GO? There’s been a succession of Italian restaurants in this spot over the years, none of which gained much traction. Now, under the ebullient control of Roberto Ugolini, Limoncello is attracting the crowds. Service is cheerful but coordination between kitchen and front of house needs some tweaking.

WHAT TO ORDER? Other Italian restaurants in Bangkok are focusing on regional cuisines, taking diners down new and sometimes unexpected routes. Limoncello remains committed to the crowd-pleasing favourites, albeit of a high quality. Pasta, whether handmade or imported bronze-cut brands, is excellent; try ravioli with prosciutto and peas or capelletti in brodo; the doughy hats absorbing the chicken broth resemble an Italian take on xiao long bao. Pick of the pizzas is venezia, hot ham and cool mascarpone offering an intriguing contrast. It’s not just about the starches; salt-baked sea bass is fragrant and tender. Desserts are fairly standard; think tiramisu and panna cotta.

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